Tuesday, April 1, 2014

"...And He saw that the water was good."

Coral structures such as this one are common as is
        the presence of numerous fish flocking the area
        in search of food. The colors as spectacular
        even on a day when the water is cloudy.
        (Source: Google Images)
 Having visited other islands, I can objectively say that Grenada has an underwater wildlife that is difficult to rival.

Beneath the surface is an Avatar-like world where butterfly-fish will surround you if you are still enough, sea ants are not afraid to bite and schools of green barracuda are always casually swimming by.

My favorite sight, is that of bright red lobsters strolling along the ocean floor and whipping fan-like red tails about with sass. It makes me wonder why the Little Mermaid ever wanted to leave this vastly wonderful kingdom.

Our fringing reefs, home to these beautiful creatures, have been around for centuries, some taking as many as 25 years to grow 1 centimeter of coral.
     This underwater statue is one of the earliest
ones erected and is part of "Vicissitudes."
 Covering the concrete frame is more than 
one year's worth of coral growth.
            (Source: Google Images)

Without any particular structure, these corals grow in a vast variety of shapes, conforming to nothing but nature's unique design. The different species also create a diversity of colors similar to what one would find in an above-ground botanical garden.

But on the island's west coast, Grenada holds a high place as being one of two places worldwide (Cancun, Mexico is the next such location) that has underwater sculptures.

Dozens of concrete sculptures span approximately 800 meters on the ocean floor and aim not only to beautify the environment, but to protect the ecosystem from further decimation via hurricanes and violent waves.

These sculptures reflect images of unity, humanity, humor, or just everyday life. If you aren't observant, after snorkeling for a while one of these figures can surely sneak up on you and you would find yourself staring into the eyes of a sunken statue!

The statue I love the most is "Christ of the Deep."
    Grenada also has the same statue above aground
in a coastal setting and it captivates me
with its passion every time I see it.
(Source: Google Images)
They are specially designed to encourage the growth of coral on them and so, after a few months, a plain white sculpture is transformed into something that is scary and strange, but magnificent.

Among sculptures are “Vicissitudes” featuring a circle of people holding hands and facing outward, “The Lost Correspondent” which is a man at a typewriter and “The Silent Evolution” featuring 400 life-sized statues of people frozen in different poses and stages of life.


     This sculpture is so ingrained in the natural
environment that it is easy to dive right past
it without noticing it. In essence, this is how
we must always be with nature: existing in its
  midst but making little to no impact on, except
to encourage its growth.
(Source: Google Images)

There is something powerful about seeing mankind stand still and observe nature, as the statues seem to do. It contrasts the reality of life on land where there is a constant competition between nature and humans as each almost seeks to dominate the other. 

In a very real way, the underwater sculptures present a picture of a utopia, where there is harmony and where each side of the spectrum supports the other.

These statues aren't just awe-inspiring. They are also powerful reminders of how conscious we should be of our environment. They aren't just something for us to enjoy, Grenada's underwater sculptures are something that we should live by, and I learned this on my very first dive.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

"...And a Clark's Court Rum."

“And a Clark's Court Rum.” Once I hear that, I know a party is going down somewhere. Sometimes, I may be at a local shop and the person in front of me is rambling down a list for the clerk, and he ends off with, “...and a Clark’s Court Rum.”

It’s difficult to say anything about Grenada or the West Indies in general without commenting on our culture of rum. We are not a society of “soolers” (drunks), but indeed liquor is large part of our heritage.

For many, an affinity for rum starts of off at an adult party where we accompany our parents as children. At some point in the night, our daddies will be drinking a cocktail, see our curious eyes and offer us a sip. Once that burning sensation hits our throats and we begin to cough, we immediately become the topic of a bout of laughter among the grown-ups.

River Antoine Estate Ltd. Grenada. This factory
        began as a sugar production
        during 17th and 18th century enslavement 
        and is still used in modern-day rum production.
        (Source: Per Eriksson)
Our rum culture began during slavery. Each island was touched by this deep tragedy and was left with multitudes of sugar plantations and refineries. On many islands like Grenada, these plantations continued their legacy of sugar production after emancipation was won, but branched off to specialize in rum production. Thus, many brands originate from plantations worked on by our very own ancestors.

We have three rum factories: Grenada Rum Factory, River Antoine Estate Ltd. (which uses an actual water-powered mill) and Dunfermline Estate Ltd. The rums produced come from locally grown sugar cane, is hand-made and bottled, and uses a variety of recipes based on age-old traditions.

You can be certain that this is not a loveless product; each bottle is made by someone who genuinely believes in the product, especially on a Saturday night lime (outing).

Clark’s Court and River Antoine (rivers) rums are two of the most popular brands. Each come in varieties such as fruit punch, Old Grog, pineapple, spice liquor and sorell. Clark's Court has a total 37 varieties.

Last year, Clarks Court’s: #37, Old Grog, Superior Light and Rhythm Coconut Rum jointly won the World Spirit’s Award. This is not a first for this particular brand, which has a world reputation for winning countless awards yearly, especially in Europe.
An experienced rum-maker. The smile on his face
is not from having a drink before work. Indeed it
is indicative of the pride he puts in his work and
             his love for the product
             (Source: Google images)


I cannot say that I am a rum expert, but my mother did work in the nation’s primary brewery and this has won us an impressive liquor collection at home. During house parties, my father would line the counters with bottles of rum for guests to mix at their pleasure. Beautifully, he would turn a blind eye when I put my hand on a bottle.

This is certainly not as mild as the
water it resembles! Rivers is known
in the Caribbean for its lack of mercy
so please enjoy responsibly.
(Source: Grenada Breweries Ltd.)
Rum is often present at celebrations such as weddings, wakes, carnival, Christmas (especially Christmas), happy hours, clubs and festivals. It is certainly not a staple part of our diets, but we know a party will be better with spirits tilted upward from the bottom of a shot glass.
As much as I encourage you to enjoy as much of my island as possible, whether through this blog or visiting it in reality, please be cautious.

Our rums are not for the weak or flirtatious drinker. You must be prepared through training and mental fortitude to withstand the burn of carefully crafted mixes and still enjoy the flavor.

If you are determined to conquer the Clark’s Court:

Step 1: mix three parts soda with one part rum in a shot glass.

Step 2: mix half-rum, half-soda.

Step 3: call someone to give you a ride home. You are done for the night. 

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

"And give me a Spicy Calypso...!"

For several Saturdays of my childhood, my father woke me up early in the morning, and took me with him for a drive. I remember - the sun would be just rising over the stalky, green mountain that faced my bedroom window and hot rays of orange and yellow would be pitching off the ocean in the distance to light up my sleepy eyes.

He wouldn't tell me where we were going, but I didn't care; the drive alone with him was precious then as it is now. What colored those trips, was the atmosphere. No one was driving on the roads, and no words passed between us; only a sweet, jumpy calypso beat. For many Grenadians, calypso is that thing that tops off a great moment.


                                 Two seasoned Calypsonians battle
                                 for the title of Calypso King in a
                                 carnival celebration held on the island. 
                                (Source: Google Images)

Calypso is not that demon-lady on "Pirates of the Caribbean". Though she may go by that name, the real calypso is a lot more social and far more captivating.  


Coke bottles and forks are popular
musical instruments used in calypso.
It is the only instrument most people
know how to play and is easy to
obtain at any calypso festival.
(Source: Google Images)
Calypso is a musical genre that originates in Trinidad, an island south of my own. It is characterized by the use of the steel pan, shak shak (a hollowed out cassava filled with peas), drums, trumpets, piano, African drums and anything found lying around. 

My favorite instrument related to this genre is actually a coke bottle, a fork and a little soul. This type of music is one of Grenada's traditions, and is common not only on the radio, but also at cultural festivals, talent shows and parties, especially Oldie-Goldie Nights at the Spice Basket, a popular watering hole for the islanders.


        Believe it or not there is a woman inside all of that
       costume!This is a woman sporting Carnival
       garb during a Calypso show in Grenada
       (Source: Google Images)

Calypso festivals are a huge deal over in Greenz Kingdom (Greenz is a nickname for Grenada). Enormous parades and costumes show off on the stage as a seasoned calypsonian lights up the night with his rhythms.

Many people think that this genre is strictly party music with lyrics that are created just to rile up a crowd. I present a different view: calypso lyrics are usually based on politics, fables, funny stories, satires or lessons that elders wish to pass on to the youth.


"Love thy Neighbor" by Grenadian singer Ajamu is an example of this. It should be the go-to song for anyone who wishes for a new take on an old lesson.

According to president of the Trinidad and Tobago Unified Calypsonians Organization (TUCO) Lutola Musimba, "It celebrates and analyzes life and the way we live it."


When I hear a good calypso, I see my people, for this aspect of our culture melds the richest parts of who we are into something great.

Want to know what we think, what we laugh at, what we believe are timeless morals, or which politician is doing a terrible job? Find a good calypso, a cup of authentic hot cocoa-tea and listen, while the music soothes you and makes you come alive at the same time.


Cocoa tea is a popular drink in Grenada and is usually
served during special occasions such as Christmas time
or while relaxing to the beats of a calypso medley.
I must pause here to comment that it isn't usually just
cocoa and milk that go into our cocoa tea
but a combination of freshly ground cocoa beans,
hot milk, nutmeg, brown sugar and
cinnamon.
(Source: Google Images)

           Love Thy Neighbor by eight time calypso monarch of Grenada Ajamu
(Source: Youtube)

 What I find particularly unique about this genre is that it unites the country so wholly. No one is left out when "Love Thy Neighbor" plays at a dance or a wedding, because everyone, young and old, appreciates calypso.

I laugh to myself when a popular song among the youths features on the radio of a public bus and elderly passengers suck their teeth in annoyance. But when a sweet bit of calypso comes on the radio everyone is happy, and, across whatever divides may separate us, unity is achieved then and there. Some of our most popular artists include: Randy Isaac, Ajamu, Sour Serpent and Scholar.

No matter where you come from or who you are, you could make a powerful memory over a sweet and spicy calypso beat. It may be with a loved one at Spice Basket, on the airport arriving for spring break or pulled up faithfully from your own playlist.

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

"Watch Waist!"

Bele Dance in Action!
(Source: Google Images)
One of the reasons I celebrate my homeland of Grenada is its culture of dance. As a dancer of three years, I’ve had the honor of performing at live events all across the island. Usually, traditional dances are performed to traditional music such as soca, reggae or sweet, sweet calypso.

Our dances are hugely influenced by West Coast Africans who were enslaved in the Caribbean in the 17th and 18th centuries. For them, the art of movement, signifying bodily freedom, was one step closer to actual autonomy.

Dancing accompanied by goat-skin drums was common in slave quarters, especially on Sundays, their only day off. On plantations where there was the influence of multiple African nations, styles of motion mixed and blurred and eventually resurfaced to found the traditional dances that exist today.

Examples of such dances include: Quadrille, maypole, bele and call and responses.

The moves you’ll see if you venture to this nook of the planet will captivate you.

Our dances in general involve a lot of hip and waist movements, shuffling feet and bouncing bodies with raised hands. And more often than not, you’ll find someone dancing with their eyes closed, because for us Grenadians, it’s all about feeling the music, not necessarily syncing with the beats.  

     Men are usually the most impressive
     dancers when it comes to showmanship.
     He's most likely a natural.
     (Source: Google Images)
 It's about freedom, not conformity.

Each style of dance has its own special garb, and  it is not uncommon to see someone walking the streets in elaborate costumes during festival months such as July and August.                    

Like our African ancestors, it’s about being barefoot and happy and following on the waves of a song however you see fit. Creativity and variation is celebrated and no one is afraid of experimenting with a move, in the hopes that it will become the next fad.                                                                              
It is always a celebration when it comes time to dance. These occasions are not bound to a specific time and place. If you “feel de riddim, you dance it.”

I remember the first time I danced for a show. I learned at the very first practice that it was not about technique, it was about using your own character to make the moves come alive.

Sometimes, things get especially intense when someone breaks out several drums and a steel pan...


Young female performers dance various types of traditional
dance on Grand Anse beach, Grenada
(Source: Conception Dance Theatre)
     Different organizations hold dance shows every few months. These family events are frequented by many tourists and others hoping to sneak a peak of the flavor that characterizes us as a people.

None of the dances are solo and, especially during carnival celebrations, they involve hundreds of thousands of people coming together to enjoy each other's company and "move some waist" as we would say.

                                          Traditional Maypole Dancing at a Grenadian Festival
                                          (Source: Youtube)

Since coming to America for school, I tell everyone who shows any interest in diversity and new cultures that Grenada (or Greenz, as we call it) is the place to be. Anyone who visits it and catches one spell of dancing fever and will never be the same.